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When curating a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate well-known award-winning venues. But, tucked high among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a distant part of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

This little Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. This accolade has left the family completely astonished.

“I am totally astonished,” states the family member, alluding to his family’s hard graft that led to their modest restaurant earning such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has kept much of its former feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the food, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender quality.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can start at many times that figure.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at elite establishments. “I am really proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning outside its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this gastronomic triumph.